The United States/ Canada border crossing in Roosville, Montana is a small, un-exciting spectacle much like its Antelope Wells counterpart, as I would later learn. While un-exciting could be a word used to describe its physical impression, emotionally it was quite exciting, especially after battling the wild Flathead Valley!
The prospect of riding across an entire state seemed quite daunting, and Montana wasn't exactly the smallest state around, so I knew I was in for a challenge! The start of this crossing was easy and un-intimidating due to the paved road I was on, and the relatively populated and civilized nature of this part of Montana. As the ride progressed, so did my realization that this was not going to be an easy undertaking.
The beginning of the climb up Flathead Pass is quite lovely. It meanders up a small, paved road past idyllic campgrounds and small homesteads. As the climb progresses, the road turns to dirt and the scenery becomes more wild. This wild scenery would take hold of the ride from that point and not relinquish control until after a middle of the night crossing of grizzly and snow-ridden Red Meadow Pass and an arrival in the town of Whitefish the following dawn. In retrospect, I should have stopped right then for a short slumber, but my sleep deprived mind thought otherwise, and I proceeded to push on for what would became a huge ride comprised of 5 passes, roughly 230 miles and 35 hours of solid riding. As it turned out, this was a tactical mistake that essentially found me riding at my slowest pace to Holland Lake, where I collapsed in the campground for some much needed sleep before my assault of Richmond Peak began the following day.
The climb up Richmond Peak was where I met my two riding companions that would, as it turned out, complete the rest of the journey with me. Their names were Saddle Sores and Achilles Tendonitis. This relationship started out in a very subtle way, but soon grew to an intense and dominating relationship in which, quite frankly, I felt victimized and abused. Needless to say, this development was concerning and would prove to be the source of the most intense pain that I have lived through to date. Luckily, soon after the discovery of said ailments, I found myself in the wonderful town of Ovando, sitting in the Stray Bullet cafe, basking in the hospitality of the town's blue-dot followers (blue-dots demystified here: trackleaders). While dining in Ovando, I met Forest Baker and Brian Pal, who would later be temporary riding partners of mine and both go on to also finish in the top ten.
Mostly, the rest of Montana that followed was a bit of a blur due to my increasing exhaustion. As I sit here trying to recount my experiences to create a good story, all I can summon are bits and pieces connected by long stretches of forested service roads. Those bits and pieces would include such memories as my 4 hour motel room rental in Helena due to exhaustion, an incredible bike service experience at The Outdoorsman in Butte (Levi Leipheimer's brother's shop) where I met the famed racer's family, an incredible breakfast and shower at the Tour Divide-friendly Montana High Country Lodge in Polaris, lightning, hail, rain and bike-stopping mud between Polaris and Lima, and, last but not least, mile upon mile of brutal headwinds.
My experience riding across Montana was trying, but incredibly rewarding. I was deeply moved and motivated by the many local supporters of the Tour Divide, and with the incredible hospitality and kindness of almost everyone I met. Without the kindness and support shown to us during those early days of the race, I am sure the attrition rate would be even higher than it was!
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